0-10V dimming

0-10V — analog, cheap, and honest about it

The simplest dimming protocol still in wide use. A pair of wires carries a voltage, the driver reads it, and the whole zone follows. Nothing is addressed, nothing reports back, and for a great many rooms that is entirely sufficient.

How it works

A voltage, not a message

The driver is fed mains as normal. Alongside it runs a separate low-voltage control pair carrying a DC level between roughly 0 and 10 volts.

Ten volts means full output. Around one volt means minimum. The driver reads that voltage continuously and sets its output to match — there is no protocol, no packet and no negotiation, which is exactly why it is so robust.

Every driver wired to the same control pair sees the same voltage, so they all dim together. That is the defining property of 0-10V, and both its strength and its ceiling: a zone is defined by the wiring, permanently.

A related variant, 1-10V, sets one volt as the minimum level and cannot switch the load off — it needs a separate relay to do that. Check which one a driver expects.

AT A GLANCE

0-10V in one card

  • Analog DC control signal, separate from the power circuit
  • 10V = full, ~1V = minimum, 0V = off on most drivers
  • Polarity sensitive — the pair must be the right way round
  • One dimming level per pair; zones are physical
  • One-way — the driver never reports anything back
  • No commissioning software, no addressing step
  • Available on both constant-voltage and constant-current drivers
The honest trade-offs

What you gain and what you give up

Where it earns its place

  • Zones are already well defined and unlikely to change
  • Budget matters and the zone count is modest
  • Nobody needs per-fixture control or colour tuning
  • The install should be commissionable by any competent electrician
  • Long-term simplicity is worth more than flexibility

Where it runs out

  • Re-zoning means pulling cable, not editing software
  • No feedback — a failed driver is found by looking at it
  • Low-end behaviour varies; some drivers drop out or pop near the bottom
  • Mixing brands in one zone can produce visibly mismatched levels
  • Tunable white needs extra channels and gets awkward fast
  • Long control runs can suffer voltage drop, so fixtures at the far end sit at a different level
The dimming curve is not standardised. Two manufacturers can interpret the same 5 volts differently — one linearly, one logarithmically. Within a single zone that reads as fixtures at visibly different brightnesses. Keep one driver family per zone.
Driving it

Getting 0-10V onto a wall keypad

0-10V drivers are easy to buy and easy to wire. The part people underestimate is that the control system has to be able to produce that voltage.

Most residential wireless systems are phase-cut only. Lutron RadioRA 3 handles 0-10V through a dedicated dimming module, one per zone. Caséta does not do it natively at all.

Where a per-zone module is not the right answer, we drive Shelly 0-10V dimmer modules from our own controller. It reads the Lutron Smart Bridge PRO over LEAP — Lutron’s local, certificate-authenticated API — so a Caséta keypad or Pico remote sets the level on a 0-10V driver directly, with no cloud and no smart-home hub in the path. Home Assistant can be added for app, voice and sensors, but is not required.

Specify the PRO bridge: Caséta exposes LEAP on the Smart Bridge PRO (L-BDGPRO2), not the standard Smart Bridge; on RadioRA 3 it is the RR-PROC3 processor.

It is a substantially cheaper path to the same result, with the caveat that bridged control suits scene recall and set-level better than live hold-to-dim ramps. The same controller handles DALI drivers on the same job, so a scheme can mix both protocols without mixing control systems.

SPECIFY WITH CARE

What we check on a 0-10V job

  • Minimum dim level the driver actually reaches, not the marketing figure
  • Whether it is 0-10V or 1-10V, and whether a switching relay is needed
  • Control-pair polarity and cable run length
  • One driver family per zone, to keep the curve consistent
  • Whether the control system can source the signal, or needs a module
  • Whether any part of the scheme will later want colour tuning — if so, reconsider now

0-10V or DALI for your project?

It usually comes down to how likely the zoning is to change, and whether anyone will ever want colour tuning. Twenty minutes on a call is normally enough to settle it.